CNNGo explores Beirut, a city once dubbed the "Paris of the Middle East". 25 years after the end of Lebanon's civil war, many of Beirut's buildings still bear the pockmarks and scars from the conflict. But Beirut and its resilient residents are more determined than ever to look toward the future. We begin in the heart of downtown Beirut's revitalized souk, which hosts a bustling farmer's market every weekend. Restaurant owner and "food activist" Kamal Mouzawak reveals secrets about the country's diverse cuisine as he takes us to taste some traditional favourites. We also explore the city's layers of ancient history, from Phoenician to Persian, with Galal Mahmoud, one of Beirut's most well-known architects. Beirut is rebuilding itself and Mar Mikhael, a district once known for car mechanics and garages, has become the new "it" place for food and fashion. We discover the city's hidden art galleries with Rosalyn Ghubril, who works at a mapping company that leads tourists to some of Beirut's hidden gems in the world of culture. Finally, as the sun sets, we have a drink with Mashrou' Leila, one of the Middle East's most well-known indie-pop bands, at a hip new bar in the Badero district - a once-sleepy residential neighborhood that is now becoming Beirut's premiere nightlife destination.